Worst Weather in the World !

 

We were all up early at 0600, quickly breakfasted and got our gear together, on a fine, although cold morning, and drove to Pinkham Notch Visitor Centre,at  620 metres high.Where we got our gear on, it was cold, snowy, and a heavy sky, and looked like there had been a fair bit of snow overnight…a day of good prospects lay ahead…we set off at 7-30 a.m. to climb Mt Washington, http://www.mountwashington.org/ at 1917 metres high, and reputably the Worlds worst weather conditions !!

We initially climbed for about 1 ½ hours, up an unrelenting snow track, used by the Snowcat which services the observatory at the top of the mountain, and although hard packed snow underfoot , it was still a hard track to follow,and overcome !

We did have a nice diversion on the way, watching a woodpecker at work on an old tree trunk! We then picked up a fire road which broke off to the right, and after a short time found the track we intended to follow to the top - Lions Head Winter Route ! http://www.newhampshireclimbing.com/climbing-course.asp?ID=68  A tricky climb lay ahead, immediately obvious as the track worked its way up through the forest, deep snow and ice below the steep track forced us all to put our crampons on almost immediately, as we climbed up a very steep gully - a fierce introduction for Joseph and Nicola to winter climbing !

The snow started falling as we climbed higher, visibility was very poor, but as we squirmed our way upwards through the forest, we were helped by  blue markers on the trees.

Eventually breaking through the tree line, and out onto the exposed top/ridge, the wind was very fierce, and straight into our faces, quickly freezing whatever was exposed - although the trail did become less steep, and we were able to follow it up to the top of Lions Head -meeting a man (with a patch over one eye !) coming down from the top-who informed us there was heavy snow higher up (although we didn’t ask where he’d come from – did he exist at all ?!).  As we climbed above the Lions Head, we quickly lost the trail, which appeared to have been submerged in the heavy snow which had recently come down, and blown over all the area, almost immediately obliterating our tracks!

The only option we had was to follow a compass bearing, and blitz straight up the mountain, using a snow gully which was there…as we got higher, the snow got deeper, almost up to waist height - without the severe cold, it could have been very avalanche prone, but OK to continue !

We continued to struggle up through the snow, ever higher, with more snow coming down, along with thick mist, so we relied on compass bearings, and altimeter readings(still climbing ! )not able to stop to rest due to the wind and cold.

Eventually we reached a slight track, and as we followed it we saw the summit buildings ahead of us, and, as we got nearer a figure appeared out of the mist around the summit buildings -turning out to be Kevin , the assistant chef from the weather station, who greeted us with the words ‘ are you French ?’ wondering we asked why - he replied’ there’s only the French mad enough to climb in these conditions !’…We had got to the top in 5 hours ,a brilliant time, and the length of time it normally takes in summer, never mind the depths of winter !…..

Kevin delightedly  showed us to the shelter at the side of the observatory, where we had a pleasant chat for a while, and then ,amazingly, he offered us a cup of hot coffee !

Which we readily accepted , and eat some food, and put warm clothing on whilst he was away. The winds were gusting around 40 - 50 mph, and temperature around -27 below, and even though we were sheltered from the wind, we soon became cold… however the Kevin re-appeared with the Austrian chef Ernst, carrying a tray of mugs, coffee and home made biscuits !! Brilliant, and set us up nicely. We then took some hasty pictures at the summit signpost, and started our descent into the fierce snowy winds, we had spent 45 minutes on the top of The Worlds Worst Weather summit !!

It was still misty, and driving snow, and as we descended we started to meet people who had been following our tracks up! The nearest being a group we met after 10/15 minutes, struggling against the wind, which by now had swung behind us, so we were having quite a pleasant descent, seeing other peoples struggling.

We were able to follow the track down the ridge, and onto Lions Head, again meeting I suppose in total 10 differing people, struggling up to the summit - I don’t think they would get coffee !!

Once across the summit of Lions Head, and across the plain below, we were pretty sure of our route down, meeting a lot more people, who wouldn’t be able to summit today !

The snow continued, but we weren’t bothered…until we got down into the forest, onto the very steep trail down the gully - which was far worse going down…but we all managed it back to the safety of the fire road, and Snowcat track all the way down to Pinkham notch, in very thick snow - arriving back around 4 p.m.- a very creditable 8 ½ hour round trip - up and down the highest Mountain in North Eastern  USA, with the reputation of the worst weather on the Planet !

And back to the cabin for hot baths, blazing fires…and an early night (as well as packing for an early departure!)